Biltmore

Throughout our travels many people have asked where we're headed. Whenever we've mentioned that Asheville was on our agenda everyone - and we mean everyone - told us "You must go to the Biltmore!" So, today's Asheville adventures took us to the 8,000 acre Biltmore Estate. The centerpiece of this picturesque estate is Biltmore House, a 175,000 square foot, 250 room French Renaissance-style mansion. Opened Christmas Eve in 1895, this architectural masterpiece was built by George Washington Vanderbilt II. Today it is known simply as "America's Castle".

We could not have asked for a better tour day. After a chilly night, today brought bright sunshine and very pleasant temperatures. On this early November Wednesday the crowds were quite manageable. And, something very special was going on at the house this morning.

Santa and Mrs. Claus were at the doorway to greet us. So, we knew something was up. Holiday preparations at the house are in full swing, as "Christmas at Biltmore" kicks off this weekend. The couple in the red suits were here today to oversee the delivery of the Biltmore's Christmas Tree, which arrived this morning. The 40-foot Douglas Fir was erected in the banquet hall as we walked in, and a busy crew of elves went straight to work draping the tree in white lights. By Friday it will be covered with ornaments and surrounded by gifts.

With our audio tours (a must have) in tow, and our cameras not allowed, we took the self-guided trip through 50-some rooms from the basement to the fourth floor. Each room has been painstakingly preserved to reflect life in the house for George Vanderbilt, his wife Edith, their daughter Cornelia, household staff and frequent guests. This time of year each room also features Christmas decorations in keeping with each room's purpose and decor. It was all very grand, and still amazingly comfortable.

The loggia, just off the tapestry room on the first floor, was one area where cameras were allowed. What a marvelous place to spend an afternoon.

A series of arches on the loggia frames the colorful landscape of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Even though it is past its autumnal peak, the forest of trees on the estate is still quite striking.

After our two-hour tour inside we roamed around the grounds soaking in the sights and the sun. This is part of the roof of the carriage house.

This is an exterior view of the home's grand staircase. Suspended from the center of this light-filled space inside is a four-story iron chandelier.

A beautiful wisteria arbor shades the library terrace and frames the forested mountains.

Here we are on the steps "out back". Paul has really enjoyed wearing Kansas attire here in North Carolina! (And, as always, shorts everyday.)

This is a view of the library terrace and one side of the house.

The grandeur of the house is matched by the surrounding Biltmore Gardens, designed by Central Park landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted. The four-acre walled garden, bursting with colorful chrysanthemums, sits just above the glass-roofed conservatory, which is filled with exotics and flowers and plants for the house.

Outside the very quaint gardener's cottage sat bushes with these simply lovely blooms.

After being shuttled back to the Jeep, we began our three-mile road trip off the estate. Even on the way out, the beauty of Biltmore continued to wow us. During this special week between Autumn and Christmas at Biltmore, we enjoyed the very best of two colorful seasons.

Now that we've seen this magnificent place, we'll join the throngs of people who encourage all who are headed to Asheville. You must go to the Biltmore!

We're sure glad we did.

Swannanoa, NC

We arrived at the Asheville East KOA when trick-or-treating was about to commence. We setup in record time and Paul made a last minute run out for candy.

We were so excited! This was our first batch of trick-or-treaters in 10 years! With 100 or so kids parading around the park, we actually ran out of candy. What fun!

With the happy goblins back in their campsites, we took a stroll around the campground to see the scary - and not so scary - sights. We think we're going to enjoy our week here.

Happy Halloween!

Charleston, SC

We crossed the Cooper River and found our way to the Charleston Visitors Center. There we learned that the town highlights were within walking distance. So, we kept the Jeep parked and strolled down Meeting Street, aka "Museum Mile" to take in the sights.

Charleston is nicknamed "The Holy City" for a couple of reasons. First, and most obvious, is the preponderance of churches on the city skyline. The second, is the Charleston was one of the first cities in the original 13 colonies to provide religious tolerance to the French Huguenot Church and one of the first colonial city to allows Jews to worship without restriction. Today there are churches everywhere you look in downtown Charleston. This is Citadel Square Baptist Church.

A quick turn in the opposite direction from that one, we saw another. This is St. Matthew's Lutheran Church.

This is Trinity United Methodist Church. Imagine how striking it would be against a blue sky! But, with today's overcast it was not meant to be.

We just couldn't walk far without seeing a church. Here's another: Circular Congregational Church.

The Four Corners of the Law is a local term for the corner of Meeting and Broad Streets in Charleston. St. Michael's Episcopal Church stands on one corner. A Federal Courthouse and Post Office are on another. The two corners across Broad Street are occupied by the Charleston County Courthouse and Charleston City Hall.

This charming building houses Engines 2 and 3 of the Charleston Fire Department. I can't imagine backing a fire engine into one of those little cubbyholes! If you look closely, you'll see a Dalmatian resting on a red cushion between the two bays. The CFD has a sense of humor!

The majority of our self-directed walking tour was spent admiring Charleston homes. They are magnificent!

Oh look! Another church. This is First Scots Presbyterian Church.

Stately old homes framed by grand live oaks dripped in Spanish moss. Lovely.

The Historic Charleston Foundation maintains museums in two of Charleston's grand jewels. This is the Nathaniel Russell House, a Federal style townhouse that was constructed circa 1808.

Many of the homes in downtown Charleston are historic landmarks that are still used as private residences.

I just couldn't stop taking pictures of these beauties.

Our "postcard from Charleston".

When we reached the end of Meeting Street we circled around the battery and strolled up East Battery to see more of these antebellum homes.

Each house has its own distinct character. They are simply gorgeous.

Can you just imagine spending an afternoon on one of these stunning porches?

If your interested in having your very own porch in Charleston, we spotted several for sale. This sign says this place has "Grand Proportions". We think that might translate to "grand price tag".

We've seen lots of ironwork around the South. In downtown Charleston many of the homes feature iron gates.

Behind the gates you may find magnificent side gardens like this one. This is a private residence that had its gate open with a sign welcoming passersby to enjoy the view from the street.

This is the side garden at the Nathaniel Russell House.

With all that walkin' and gawkin', we were thirsty. This was the first course of our lunch at the Southend Brewery and Smokehouse. (No, we didn't eat the crayons!)

One of Charleston's most photographed streets is a stretch of East Bay Street known as "Rainbow Row". These are just a few of the vibrant old row houses in this district, which represent the first style of Charleston homes and were portrayed in the story of Porgy and Bess.

Whatd'ya know? There's another church. St. Philips is located on very aptly named Church Street.

Just outside St. Philips, we spotted this car that reminded us that Halloween is just around the corner.

With our day of sightseeing behind us, we settled in for our last night in Mt. Pleasant. Our gray and cloudy day ended with a dramatic sunset over the little pond here at our KOA. Tomorrow we leave the Lowcountry and head for the hills of Asheville, NC.

Isle of Palms, SC

As we were driving toward the Mt. Pleasant KOA yesterday we saw a sign pointing toward Isle of Palms, just seven miles away. After checking in we learned that the Isle of Palms is where you go when you want to go to the beach. With 75 degree temperatures and a bright blue sky, today was the day to do just that. As we crossed the connector bridge to the barrier island we met our old friend the Intracoastal Waterway.

Originally named Hunting Island and then Long Island, this seven mile wide by one mile long stretch of paradise is now home to 5,000 permanent residents and ten times that in peak tourist season. Wouldn't one of these colorful villas be a beautiful place to spend a vacation steps away from the beach?

And, what a beach it is. The sparkling Atlantic with its smooth sandy shores is so much more approachable than that other ocean we hung out next to for so long. This inviting scene just calls for a long stroll.

But, first, pictures! We unfolded our paper niece for a requisite shot of the ocean. What's funny about this picture is I'm responding to a woman who was running toward me on the beach yelling "Is that a Flat Stanley?" Why, yes. But, actually, it's a Flat MC. We had a fun chat about our flat traveling friend.

Flat MC and I traded spots with Paul and he took his turn sticking his Keens in the warm water. What a delightful day!

There's something very peaceful about the beach.

We had a great time watching these little guys run up and down the shore in search of food.

And these little guys were having the best time!

This big guy seemed to be enjoying his day, too.

Even Rocky got into the act. Doesn't he look relaxed chilling out under the palms?

Back on the mainland, we took a cruise through Patriot's Point. From here we could see the USS Yorktown and the Ravenel Bridge. They're both very impressive!

From the point we caught a glimpse of Charleston across the Cooper River. We could see from here why its known by some as the "Holy City", but we'll see for ourselves tomorrow.

Besides being our route back to the KOA, Highway 17 north of Charleston is also known as the Sweetgrass Basket Weavers Highway. Sweetgrass basket making is unique to the Gullah people of South Carolina's Lowcountry. The Gullahs are descendants of African slaves who worked the South Carolina plantations, where they made and used the baskets to collect and carry vegetables and store other foods. Today, this highway is lined with keepers of this ancient folk-art tradition, who sit at hand constructed stalls like this one and weave sweetgrass and pine needles into beautiful works of art.

Mt. Pleasant, SC

We traveled about 150 miles today to the Mt. Pleasant/Charleston KOA. We're 10 miles from historic Charleston and 7 miles from the beach. The forecast for the next few days: Ahhhhhhh!

We have great wifi here, so we'll catch up on the blog, too. More soon.